24 Volt DC Washing Machine
I have been looking to convert my front loading washing machine to run directly of 24 volt. Why?
1. For sake of efficiency.
2. Most washing machine today are electronic and like only pure sine wave inverters. Good sine wave inverters are somewhat more expensive to buy (and replace when they go wrong).
3. I have not found a commercial ready-built 24 volt or 12 volt washing machine.
I shall keep you posted along the way of my journey on this one.
Please comment.
July 5th, 2009 at 3:17 pm
I found this device, it look like they are selling on behalf of someone else. It is exactly what I am looking for so if you have found one it would be good to hear.
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SPECIFICATIONS: DIMENSIONS: 24″ Wide x 25.5″ Deep x 42.25″ High
SHIPPING WEIGHT: 167 Pounds
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STANDARD COLOR: White
24 Volt Model Available
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$ 840.00 Plus Shipping
AST-#020W
12 Volt Clothes Washer
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* Basket Capacity of 2.5 Cu. Ft. * Heavy Duty Construction * Self Cleaning Lint Filter
* Porcelain Basket * 5 Automatic Cycles * 3 Wash / Rinse Temperature Combinations * 2 Water Levels
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For more Information, Please E-Mail: CMACM Technologies
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April 14th, 2010 at 3:09 pm
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July 29th, 2010 at 2:25 am
Several years ago, I converted a standard kenmore top-load washer to run on 32 VDC for use on a wind power system. Actually, it was pretty easy.
I used a tiny square-wave inverter to run the controls. Then, instead of a motor, I inserted a relay where the motor would have been. The motor was removed and a DC motor substituted and it’s operation was controlled by the aforementioned relay. End of story. It worked.
I encountered some difficulties. First, the DC motor had to be configured for front mount. It has to have the same power and rpm range. I used a 24vdc motor that had all of the requirements except VOLTAGE. I figured that I could adjust the pulley sizes to compensate which was true, within limits. So, I ended up with a fast-running top-load washer. It would just about spin the clothes dry.
Right now, I’m contemplating a conversion on a front-load computer-controlled washer. I need a circuit diagram or a consult with an appliance repairman. I imagine this problem to be quite solvable.
Since the new breed of front loads use electronically-commutated motors, they MUST convert AC to DC in the power supply. These new motors are, essentially, DC motors. The DC is then electronically conditioned by the controller to yield variable frequency 3 phase power to the motor. We don’t need to bother with this part…the important thing is the power supply. So, locate the DC output of the power supply (the computer also runs on DC, probably 5 volts) and substitute a DC-DC converter or converters. We might have to have more than one converter, say one for 5 volts and the other for 12 volts or 24 volts. Then, the washer should run normally.
There’s a small snag though…the pump that removes waste water is an AC pump-this, I know because I replaced same on an Asko washer. So, this problem has to be dealt with. If your drain is at floor level, a DC solenoid could be used to control the gravity flow of water out of the washer. Otherwise, some kind of RV DC water pump could be substituted and connected to the relay that controls the AC pump.
So, this is my theory…if you try it, let me know.
With off-grid systems, it’s very useful to get as much as possible working on DC. To handle the day-in-day-out requirements of supplying AC, a very good, sine-wave inverter would be necessary. Too many inverters are garbage and, depending on them could end up being a disappointing experience.
July 30th, 2010 at 12:32 pm
Thank you David.
I’m sure it is possible to get a hold of the circuit diagrams. I have comtemplated the thought of “replacing” the insides with a microcontroller based setup like with PIC or AVR. I’ve been too busy though to follow through with further research of any kind. When I studied the inside of my LG font loader, I noticed what looks like a speed sensor on the end of the motor shaft. I believe that many modern washing machines motors are in fact dc but much higher voltages like 180 volts or so for some machines sold in Australia.
Hmmm. Food for thought. Thanks again David.